Bernal
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◈ This quiet, peaceful corner of Querétaro is a place of Chichimec origins. Here, where time stands still, the people live at an unhurried pace. Wherever you go, the Peña de Bernal is always present.
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Peace, tranquility, and mystery radiate out from this imposing monolith, while the town’s streets are filled with colorful textiles and delicious food and candies. Above, people climb to the loftiest points of the rock and explore the caves up high.
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◆Seeing the Cueva de la Calavera (Skull Cave) and learning about its history at the rock.
◆Doing a tour and wine tasting at Vinos Azteca.
◆Buying pecan milk candies at Dulces Bernal.
Arrange to see the rock with Ecoturismo Los Cuervos, they’ll take you higher than you’d imagine. You don’t have to be a professional athlete to go up.
❖Peña de Bernal and Cueva de la Calavera
Mythic monolith: they say it gives vitality to the people living nearby.
Wherever you look, the monolith is there, dominating the landscape. The rock we see began as lava trapped inside a volcano. Some people seek to experience it by climbing up and rappelling down (there are a number of routes with varying degrees of difficulty), others just hike up the trails so they can recharge their energy during the spring equinox. A few years ago, Ecoturismo Los Cuervos ([email protected]) came up with a comfortable way to get tourists up the rock using a hitch pulled by a powerful ATV. That way, you don’t break a sweat, and—thanks to their tour guides—you learn all the rock’s secrets: the caves, vestiges of Chichimec culture, a pre-Hispanic painting, animal and plant life (including Criollo maguey, a feature in regional cooking), and more.
The mysterious Cueva de la Calavera can be found in the rock’s surrounding area. Here, over time, a stalactite took on the shape of a skull. It’s the clearest and most well-known formation, but the cave itself is really the thing to see. Everyone has fun looking for shapes in the rocks.
❖ Museo de la Máscara (Masks Museum)
Find hundreds of masks at the mask museum. There are those made by local artisans and which refer to the town’s rituals, legends, and historical figures. There’s a section featuring a collection of Mexican pre-Hispanic masks and another that includes masks from elsewhere in the world.
The museum features a total of 300 masks made from materials ranging from dried maguey leaf, cactus paddles, bone, and coral tree wood.
They take the form of demons, monsters, historical figures and the occasional celebrity such as Cantinflas or Pedro Infante.
❖ Downtown streets
Downtown consists of just a few, very walkable streets. This makes for a wonderful stroll. You can’t miss the pedestrian walkway, where you’ll find plenty of eating and shopping.
You’ll come across La Atarjea, a quaint little square that’s home to the colonial-style chapel named Capilla de las Ánimas. Don’t miss La Explanada, where the dancing fountains come alive at night. It’s a great spot for viewing the rock.
❖ Climb up Peña de Bernal
While some choose to climb up and rappel down (there are a number of routes with varying degrees of difficulty), others prefer to simply walk up and enjoy the sights along the way. Many people come to recharge their energy during the spring equinox.
❖ Check out Viñedos Azteca
The region is fertile ground for grape-growing. Why not visit a vineyard? Azteca is a short trip from Bernal. On weekends, you can learn about the wine-making process. Some of the varietals to try include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah and Tempranillo.
Viñedos Azteca
Where
Km 40.4 on the San Juan del Rio-Cadereyta road, Los Pérez
Operating hours
Sat and Sun, 10 am to 5 pm
❖Try Dulces Bernal and other delights
Hit the spot with something sweet.
Gorditas de maíz quebrado are a must. Head to Portal de Doña Tere to try these stuffed pockets of cracked-corn dough served with crushed red chili sauce.
There’s plenty of history behind the nopal en penca. The dish consists of an open cactus paddle that serves as container for cooking a filling generally consisting of cactus chunks, tomato, onion, and chili pepper. Ask for it at El Mirador.
Restaurante Grucado is your choice for cuts of beef and local ranch cheeses. La Troje (at Hostal Medieval) is where you’ll find unbeatable fresh cream biscuits served with house jams. Don’t forget the milk caramels and candies at Dulces Bernal. Hands down, they’re the best desserts you’ll find in the region.
❖ Equinox Festival
Peña de Bernal: A 350-meter-high monolith that seems to have been deposited by a giant as a lookout and gate to the Sierra Gorda in Queretaro. On the occasion of the spring equinox, hundreds of people climb the great rock because it is believed that the sun has a special influence on the monolith.
Pre-Hispanic rites, a spring parade, concerts by local groups, cultural exhibitions, the lighting of the new fire and a human chain for peace are also staged. It takes place from March 19 to 21
❖Celebration of Santa Cruz de la Peña
From May 1 to 5, the festivities are held in honor of the Holy Cross. The faithful go up in procession to the top of the rock to place a wooden cross.
On the second day there is a kneeling pilgrimage to the Bernal chapel and the coronation of Queen Chichimeca. The festivities include a marathon and a craft mask contest. The winners are exhibited in the Museum of the Mask.
