Chignahuapan
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◈ There are two things you’ll find plenty of in this mountain town: water and colors. There’s the lake downtown, but there are also rivers, waterfalls, and hot springs in the surrounding areas.
It’s where they celebrate Day of the Dead with a ritual that recalls the pre-Hispanic journey of the soul to Mictlán. Even when there’s no holiday, the days go by colorfully. The housefronts, the gazebo in the main square, and the spheres made here are always ready to disrupt the routine with their bright colors.
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◆ Hitting up La Condesa bakery for its pan de higo (fig bread) and pan de queso (cheese bread).
◆ Checking out the murals depicting the town’s history at the entrance to Palacio Municipal.
◆ Visiting Santuario del Honguito in Ixtlahuaca.
Make the pilgrimage to the lake, lit torch in hand, on Day of the Dead.
❖ Laguna de Chignahuapan
This mythical lake is a must see. Lake Chignahuapan gave the town its name. In Nahuatl “Chignahuapan” refers to the lake’s nine waterholes or springs. Take your time looking at the lake.
It sparkles as the reflection of clouds move over its surface. It’s great for boat rides and in September, it’s where enthusiasts come compete in the trout-fishing tournament.
❖ Basílica Menor
de la Inmaculada Concepción
The largest indoor Virgin Mary sculpture.
This church was erected thanks to the efforts of Father Ildefonso Illescas. Instead of tithe, the priest requested that the faithful contribute stones for its construction.
With its inordinate size (it’s 46 feet tall) and waving blue veil, the image of La Inmaculada seems to envelop anyone that comes near her. José Luis and Carmen Silva were the ones who created the cedarwood sculpture in the 1960s. In her arms, she carries the baby Jesus who in turns holds the white dove of the Holy Spirit.
❖ Santuario del Honguito
This sanctuary reveals details of religious syncretism.
In the Ixtlahuaca neighborhood you’ll find the Santuario del Honguito. The church houses a petrified mushroom found in 1880.
Several images can be seen in this mushroom, including a crucified Christ, aka “Our Lord of the Mushroom.” On May 3rd each year, festive activities such as dances and masses are held in honor of Jesus Christ.
❖ Purchase Ornamental Christmas Spheres
It doesn’t matter if it’s not the season. If you’re in Chignahuapan, you’re going to want to take home one of the crafts that put this town on the map: the ornamental spheres. They’re made of hand-painted blown glass. It was Rafael Méndez, who came from Pátzcuaro, who taught the town’s people how to make them. Little did the newcomer know that, three decades later, his first sphere-making workshop would be one of hundreds.
❖ Cross the Hanging Bridge at Salto de Quetzalapan
The Quetzalapan River, which originates at Lake Chignahuapan, creates these falls. There’s a recreational center offering a variety of activities. People practice rappel next to the waterfall, brave the heights on the zipline that runs above it, and kids can do the same on a children’s zipline that crosses the river, or walk along the high voltage wire for a bit of adrenaline as you cross it. There’s also a designated camping area.
❖ Relax in the Hot Springs
They have everything you need to refresh body and spirit. Relax at the hot springs and recharge your energy.
Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan spa and resort is surrounded by mountains. The Ajajalpan River runs through it on its way to the sea in Veracruz. The hot water pools ask that you do nothing but sit peacefully in the warm water. Those who stay at any of the 65 hotel rooms (each one with its thermal spring bath) has access to eleven private pools.
Or you can pay for general admission and walk among the indoor and outdoor public pools with the mountains crowded around. No matter, everything at this place serves to serenade the soul: hot stone massages, warm mud wraps, the temascal.
They sell relaxing citrus oils, rose and wild root sprays, as well as handmade soaps and masks.
❖ Feria Nacional del Árbol
y la Esfera
Long live Chignahuapan and its traditions!
From the last weekend of October to the first weekend of November is when the National Christmas Tree and Ornamental Sphere Fair is held. It’s fifteen days when everything that matters in Chignahuapan happens. It’s when they pay tribute to the sphere-making and the Christmas ornaments that have put the town on the map. They celebrate life with music and games, stands of handicrafts, pulque, and barbacoa, a crowning of the queen, and, of course a parade with floats.
When: From October to November
❖ Festival de la Luz y de la Vida
A pre-Hispanic ritual, fireworks, and a sense of belonging warm the hearts of those present.
When Day of the Dead arrives, the celebration takes on a different tone. In the morning, people go out in costumes along the main streets, while a mock cemetery across from Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol church provides the right atmosphere for the shared spirit.
In the evening, the Festival de la Luz y la Vida (Light and Life Festival) begins. It’s a spectacle not to be missed: over a thousand torches are handed out in offering, as a slow pilgrimage makes its way from the church along Calzada de las Almas, to Lake Chignahuapan and the theater next to it.
When: November 1
