Dolores Hidalgo
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◈ Close to the Río Laja is the town of Dolores, the town where José Alfredo Jiménez was born. Here, the days are made of sorbet stands in the main garden and majolica ceramic objects piled up in the handicrafts market.
This is also the place where the priest Miguel Hidalgo once lived, the man of libertarian ideas that took up arms against New Spain at the start of the 19th century. The story of those days is now memorialized in the town’s museums, buildings and streets.
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◆ Visit, in the municipal cemetery, the José Alfredo Jiménez Mausoleum, built with colorful mosaics.
◆ Go to the two old cantinas (pubs) El Incendio and La Hiedra where it feels as though time has stopped.
◆ Try the borrachita and garambullo sorbets, made with regional fruits.
The Museo de la Independencia Nacional displays weapons, documents, and small recreations of the independence movement.
❖ Casa Museo José Alfredo Jiménez
What would Mexican music be like without José Alfredo Jiménez? The famous Mexican singer and composer who was born in Dolores Hidalgo wrote more than 300 songs, among them the world-famous “El Rey” (The King).
The José Alfredo Jiménez House & Museum is located within the mansion where the composer spent his childhood. The rooms tell the story of the artist’s life, with objects such as rusty tricycles, trophies, photos, charro (traditional Mexican horse riders) outfits and telegrams. You will also find a mural by Octavio Ocampo, which depicts José Alfredo with performers such as Lola Beltrán and Chavela Vargas.
❖ Hacienda de la Erre
Built in the first half of the 18th century, the Hacienda de la Erre was one of the largest estates in Guanajuato. On its facade is a plaque that tells of an important event that took place in Dolores: “On September 16th, 1810, at midday, the priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla arrived and had lunch here in the house.
Once the meal was over, having established the Insurgent Army’s first general staff, he gave the order to march towards Atotonilco, by saying: ‘March on, sirs, let us go; we have taken on this task, and now we shall see who among us can rise to the challenge’”.
❖ Museo Casa de Hidalgo
Visit this late 18th-century mansion where Mexico´s Founding Father lived in 1819, when it was known as Casa del Diezmo.
During the War of Independence, it was occupied by diverse groups and looted on several occasions.
In 1863 it was declared a National Monument by the president, Benito Juárez. It became a museum in 1946 and today you can visit it and see some of the objects that once belonged to Miguel Hidalgo, such as his priest’s clothing, a flag bearing an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe and an urn that contains the national hero’s remains.
❖ Buy Majolica Ceramics
It was the Spanish who, during the second half of the 16th century, introduced the majolica or glazed ceramic technique to Mexico.
In Dolores, you can visit some workshops to see artisans using this technique: you will find very beautiful urns, decorative objects, plates and glasses, vases, bathroom pieces… One of the oldest workshops belongs to José Luis Contreras and is called Talavera Mayólica Contreras. Admire these colorful pieces and take one home with you!
❖ Experience the Wine Route
The landscape between San Miguel de Allende and Dolores Hidalgo is covered in grapevines and olive trees. There are three vineyards that offer tours of their facilities, as well as tastings and pairings.
Cuna de Tierra. This boutique vineyard has around 74 acres of land. Its wine is left to settle in French, Hungarian, and American oak barrels.
Bodega Dos Búhos. Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Moscato Giallo wine is produced on its seven acres of land. They offer courses on organic vine-growing and oenology.
Vinícola Toyan. Visit their cava, located 66 feet underground. The entire process of wine production here is organic.
❖ Try a Traditional Sorbet
If you visit Dolores Hidalgo without trying one of their famous traditional sorbets, you are missing out on something essential! They are refreshing and different, head to the Plaza Principal (the main square) and find the ice cream stalls all around it. Don’t be scared off by the exotic flavors on offer: the point is to be adventurous and try them!
Among other strange ice cream flavors, you will find avocado, beer, octopus ceviche, crackling, nopal (prickly pear), and mole. Ask for the garambullo and borrachita, made with regional fruits.
❖ Festival Internacional José Alfredo Jiménez
Year after year, the town that witnessed the birth of the great José Alfredo pays homage by visiting his grave overnight and giving serenades that can be heard in all the houses, squares and bars in the area. A concert is held in the main garden with the participation of mariachi groups and renowned artists.
❖ National Holidays
September 16th is the day when the shout of Miguel Hidalgo, the priest, is commemorated. It happened in the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Church of Our Lady of Sorrows), and kicked off the War of Independence. Nowadays is commemorated with music, shows and a military parade. There’s no doubt about it: this is the best place to celebrate the shout!
❖ Festival de la Vendimia
During the weekends of the month of August, Guanajuato celebrates and gives thanks for the state’s wine production with the Grape Harvest Festival. Vineyards such as Cuna de Tierra, Bodega Dos Búhos and Vinícola Toyan take part in these festivities. Tastings, workshops, conferences, grape stomping, delicious food and live music are all elements of this celebration. If you love good wine, don’t miss this event!
Magical Towns in
Guanajuato
