Cuetzalan
Read more
Slide to the left to continue
◈ The mountain setting makes Cuetzalan a town of cobblestone streets where walking among the small streets and alleyways is something you’ll want to do. When you do, you’ll see birds flying above the palm trees, inhale the aroma of coffee in the air, and share space with those who make cotton textiles.
You’ll come across Nahua women whose skirts mark their stride. Follow them and you’ll come to the market whose core is formed of flowers, fruits, baskets, and shawls.
The afternoons smell of the coming rain, beyond which tree-sized ferns, caves, and rivers await a new adventure.
.
.
◆ Stepping into the impressive Parroquia de San Francisco de Asís.
◆ Having dinner at Peña Los Jarritos or the charro ring at El Potrillo.
◆ Seeing Jardín Botánico Xoxoctic with its many orchids and ferns.
◆ Seeing how they make huipils and shawls on the backstrap loom at Mercado de Artesanías.
Check out how they make traditional garments—huipils and shawls—on the backstrap loom at Mercado de Artesanías.
❖ Parroquia de San Francisco
The church devoted to St. Francis of Assisi has a romantic-renaissance style and looks like a basilica.
The Renaissance-style church is one of the main colonial structures in Cuetzalan. Built in the 17th century, it was remodeled in the early 20th century, at which point the Doric style was incorporated.
The lofty heights of the basilica floorplan make for a stunning interior, while from without, it’s the enormous tower that attracts attention. In front of the church is the giant wooden pole for the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flying Men).
❖ Museo Emma Flores de Morante
(antes Museo Etnográfico Calmahuistic)
Discover the works of artists who capture the town’s essence with their brush strokes.
Archeological artifacts from Yohualichan, traditional costumes, antique photographs of the town, a fossil collection, and an exhibition with artifacts from the Totonac culture can all be found at this museum located inside the Casa de Cultura.
While you’re here, ask about the work of painter Gregorio Méndez Nava, whose works are marked by waterfalls, textiles, women, jaguars, and flowers.
❖ Mercado de Artesanías Matachiuj
This handicrafts market is located almost directly across from the Casa de Cultura. It is where visitors can come check out the jonote fiber basketry, fruit wines, coffee liqueur, and yolixpa—an herbal beverage venerated by the people of the highlands.
But perhaps most of all, it’s where you can see the textiles woven on backstrap looms and the embroidery style known as pepenado hilván.
At local number 26, among the shawls and huipils, you can witness María Concepción López’s prodigious hands working tirelessly at stitching threads.
❖ Check Out the Ruins of Yohualichan
Yohualichan, the ceremonial center that once formed part of the great Totonacapan region administered by El Tajín, is located 4 miles north of Cuetzalan. Like in El Tajín, the architectural style is characterized by decorated pyramidal structures over a niche-filled base.
Seated on a mountainside that slopes down from south to north, there are a number of structures built on natural esplanades. The Mesoamerican ballcourt has the highest position relative to the platform where the ceremonial center is located.
This, in turn, comprises a quad surrounded by a number of structures that give the complex an impressive appearance
❖ Head Inside the Caves
You’ll need to hire a tourism agency to explore the caves.
Cuetzalan is home to the largest dry cave system with underground rivers in Latin America. Don’t miss Gruta Chichicazapan, Cueva del Chivostoc, and Gruta Aventura. The latter is the easiest to access and the closest to town. It’s a 1,378-foot trek from the entry point to the cave.
You can do rappel at waterfalls like El Salto or Las Golondrinas. There’s a zipline near El Salto while Las Golondrinas has a natural pool for swimming. Or, you can go by horseback or on foot to Cascada Corazón del Bosque, a waterfall surrounded by tree ferns
❖ Our Lady of Carmen Festival in Yohualichan
On July 15 and 16, hundreds of people—including the faithful, dancers, and groups of voladores (flying men)—come together to honor Our Lady of Carmen. They make offerings of cash, liquor, and live chickens or turkeys to feed those in attendance.
The evening of the 15th, there’s a procession that precedes the festivities of the 16th, when the image of the Virgin is taken on a tour of the entire town and flying men rituals are performed all day.
These are mixed in with other dances and the day concludes with a fireworks display.
❖ Feast in Honor of St. Francis of Assisi
Voladores, Quetzales, Santiagos, Negritos, and Toreadores are some of the names of the different dances you can see in their full splendor.
The Feast of St. Francis of Assisi is held on October 4th, and the celebration runs all of early October. Neighboring towns and villages come to celebrate with Cuetzalan bearing flowers, incense, music, and dances.
