Tetela de Ocampo
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◈ Under the watch of the Zotolo and Zoyayo mountains, the town of Tetela awakens each day with its gaze toward the past. It looks back to when its name was Tetela de Oro and not de Ocampo, when its days were marked by the rhythm of mining and wrought-iron workshops.
Then came the 19th century and the liberal stirrings of the people would see it play a role in several battles against the conservatives of the time.
Looking back to 1862, the town recalls its role in the Battle of Puebla on May 5th, and why they call it the “Thrice Heroic Tetela de Ocampo.”
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◆ Checking out the personal items of historic figures.
◆ Climbing the belltower of Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción to get a view of the surrounding landscape.
◆ Walking through its Sunday square and shopping for handmade goods.
◆ Heading out to the waterfalls, canyons, and caves.
Check out the murals that depict the historical events of Tetela de Ocampo.
❖ Museo de los Tres Juanes
This museum revives the historic face-off with the French from the inside out. Round out your visit to the museum by listening to the corrido written by Bernardo Vera Santos. The song narrates the feats of the town’s three famous Juans.
At the Centro Cívico Cultural there’s a museum that combines pre-Hispanic artifacts found in the region with Tetela’s most prized objects—the ones that recall the town’s role in the Battle of Puebla, when the Second French Intervention gave Mexico a bunch of heroes and a date to remember: May 5, 1862. Thus, in the first gallery you’ll see vessels, mortar handles, arrowheads, metates (grindstones), and fragments of figurines pertaining to the time before the Spanish Conquest.
In order not to forget the events of the bellicose 19th century, nor the liberal tendency that marked the town in those times, the second gallery displays a canon used during the war, a pair of flags found on the battlefield, and an image of Melchor Ocampo to who Tetela now owes its name.
Perhaps the museum’s greatest treasure, however, is the portraits of “Los Tres Juanes” (The Three Juans): Juan Crisóstomo Bonilla, Juan Nepomuceno Méndez, and Juan Francisco Lucas (the first two were Tetela natives, the latter was born in Zacapoaxtla), the liberal leaders who fought against the French at the head of the Sixth Battalion of the National Guard of the State of Puebla and who would later, in 1867, join the Plan de Tuxtepec launched by President Porfirio Díaz.
The museum collection also shows some of the tools used in the olden days in the nearby mines and has a scale reproduction of a forge.
The townspeople used to spend much of their time forging metals, but little by little the activity has fallen in disuse. A couple of traditional suits and palm and wood handicrafts round out the experience.
❖ Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción
Multiple archeological remains found in the region lead to the hypothesis that buried underneath this church was, in the pre-Hispanic era, the largest ceremonial center in the area.
There’s a bridge over De La Paz Avenue that you just have to climb to reach Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción. It’s a gothic church with a Latin cross.
Its main facade features neoclassical columns and an arch encompassing the main entrance. Though the 19th-century construction is colored yellow and sits alone in its atrium, you need only climb the belltower to understand that it’s the mist-filled hills and not the church walls that guard the Holy Virgin.
Inside, the robust architecture includes two barrel vaults with beams mounted on cantera stone ashlars that combine and terminate in a splendid copula.
Depicted on this dome vault are the four annunciations to Mary and her assumption in body and soul to heaven. Below, the Virgin awaits at the altar with open arms.
Surrounded by angels and cherubs, she has her eyes set on the oil painted heaven of the copula. An enormous chandelier hangs from this vaulted ceiling, adding glitter and shine to one’s encounter with the Queen of Tetela. In March 2012, the church earned the title of Church of the Year.
❖ Murales históricos
Historic pride depicted on the walls. See for yourself!
You can learn about Tetela’s history by looking at the murals that adorn the side walls of the Palacio Municipal, or City Hall. There are two in the Assembly Hall: one looks like a codex and explains how the town was created.
The other depicts the Battle of Puebla in high relief. However, it’s the mural on the arches of the Palacio Municipal that give a more dramatic account of the details of that glorious episode when the Tetelenses and other citizens of the highlands defeated the French. In it appear the figures of Benito Juárez, Ignacio Zaragoza, and Melchor Ocampo. There’s also “Los Tres Juanes” (The Three Juans), with their somber countenances and that dignified air that only the defense of sovereignty affords.
Titled Fecha inmortal (Immortal Date), it’s the work of Sergio Ávalos, the artist who worked on the construction of the monument honoring the Sixth Battalion of the National Guard of the State of Puebla, located in the main square.
In the monument’s central body you can read the harangue attributed to General Ignacio Zaragoza, before the May 5, 1862, battle. It’s crowned by a Republic Eagle. There are six steles with different allegories showing key episodes in the French Intervention.
Don’t miss the murals titled Identidad (Identity) and Centenario (Centennial) at Paso de Carranza. The former is found on Veinte de Noviembre Street and sums up what makes Tetela proud: strength and resistance. The latter, located at Siete Poniente Street, tells of the arrival of then General Venustiano Carranza to these highlands.
❖ Explore an Underground River at Grutas de Acocomoca
Acocomoca Caves, which means “sounding water,” is believed to have healing properties. Come see the magic pool and discover why it was given its name. Round out the experience with a visit to the waterfall and check out the stalactites in the white caves.
To the northeast of Tetela, in the community of Carreragco, you’ll find the Grutas de Acocomoca. An underground river, darkness, and rock formations make up this underground world extending 656 feet in length.
Once inside, you can feel the cold water run over your feet. The large quantity of minerals in this water is said to give it healing properties.
❖ Do Rappel at Cascadas de Aconco
You can do mountain sports in the gorgeous natural settings of this Magical Town. Live the experience!
Enjoy the breeze as you descend the waterfalls of Aconco. To reach them you’ve got to walk through the trail that takes you through Cañón de Xaltatempa, a canyon some 2,625 feet long. You’ll also cross the Balcón de los Zopilotes, home to two prodigious vulture species.
The first waterfall has a height of approximately 115 feet. Here, you can do rappel, with a descent that parallels the falling water. The second is over 246 feet high landing in a pool that constitutes one of the most iconic attractions of Aconco.
The complex has experienced guides for practicing rappel. Those wishing to explore the place can also do so by zipline, horseback rides, or entering the forest nursery.
❖ Delight in the Flavors of the Food and Drink
Treat your taste buds to the diversity of flavors of this mountain town. You’ll be back for more.
If there’s one thing people love about Tetela, it’s the food. Visitors are captivated by the flavors that come from this land. The gorditas de alverjón and tamales de milpa go great with a café de olla any time of day.
Discover the taste of tixmole, a mole de olla (pot stew) that can be made with beef, chicken, or pork. If there are no vegetables it could be because it contains chayotextle—chayote root.
And let’s not overlook the baked goods such as rosquitas, ladrillos, trenzas, and imperials, which sweeten any moment. And then there’s the craft wines made with regional herbs and fresh fruit.
