Xicotepec
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◈ Located smack in the middle of the Sierra Poblana, leaving its self-contained and removed from the rest of the world, Xicotepec is a place of avocado trees. Both its climate and its people, who are accustomed to the scent of coffee that envelops the town, are warm.
Coffee plantations and green mountains surround the town as far as the eye can see.
Here, the people’s faith lies not only in the saints of Catholicism brought by the Spanish, but also in pre-Hispanic gods and witches.
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◆ Strolling around the gardens of Casa del Monje and asking about the tales related to the property.
◆ Trying the vodka and acachul (wine made from a local fruit) concoction that they serve at Bar El Gallo.
◆ Heading out to find the tiny Iglesia de Santa María de Guadalupe, in Ahuaxintitla.
Head to La Xochipila on any day and ask for a cleansing by the medicine men.
❖ Monumental Virgen de Guadalupe
The statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe was erected in 2006 at the site of a previous apparition on a bed of rocks in the El Tabacal neighborhood. With its surrounding viewing square, the green-veiled statue stands at a height of 75 feet, making sure visitors have to lift their gaze to see it.
On December 12th each year, the devout gather here with huge floral crowns to climb up in pilgrimage to the sanctuary. An observation deck affords extraordinary views of the region.
❖ La Xochipila
A ceremonial center that’s testament to ancestral knowledge of the play of light and the formation of the serpent.
This outcrop has always served as a ceremonial center for the inhabitants of Xicotepec. It’s a focal point for all the town’s energy as, each year, people seek to renew and give thanks for what they receive.
It’s a mystical site full of syncretism. The established order of Catholicism may not be forgotten here, but it’s overlayed with a belief in magic and the ancient gods.
❖ Go Rafting at Cascadas Barbas de Carranza
There are a couple of waterfalls worth checking out. A small one is right off the road, while the second is hidden among the trees where light and shadow play. Nearby, on the way to Ávila Camacho, there’s the Cilima River and its hanging bridge.
During the rainy season, you can go rafting. If you’re looking for something more relaxed, walk around the river and contemplate the water’s flow.
❖ Fiesta de San Juan Bautista
A time when people give thanks for favors received and make requests for their harvests and lives.
July 24th each year is when Xicotepec holds a feast blending Catholic and pagan traditions.
In accordance with the Catholic calendar, it’s the feast day honoring the town’s patron saint: St. John the Baptist. However, for the indigenous population it’s about Juan Techachalco, the figure that incarnates both the attributes of St. John the Baptist and Xochipilli, the god of witches, medicinal plants, and flowers.
On that day, the teponaxtle (a musical instrument reserved for the occasion) is taken out of its holding place at Palacio Municipal. There is a lively procession that makes its way to the Xochipila (the town’s ancient ceremonial center) to the tune of the teponaxtle.
Not only Indians, but also white and black witches come here to entrust themselves to the protector of their craft. Cleanses and healings are performed, while colorful dances, incense, and all around joy are joined by offerings of flowers and food.
