Huauchinango
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◈ With its ever-present Cerro de Zempoala, in pre-Hispanic times, this Magical Town was a tributary of Texcoco until the fall of Tenochtitlan.
It’s full of azaleas and, as you walk through Plaza de la Constitución, the aromas of roasted peanuts—sold by women wearing long nahuas (skirts) and embroidered blouses—fills the air.
It’s surrounded by rivers and waterfalls, as well as quiet reservoirs full of trees and clouds reflected in the water.
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◆ Taking a dip in the natural pools under the Totolapa and Salto Chico waterfalls.
◆ Trying puñete and papatla tamales made in Cuacuila.
◆ Shopping for ornamental plants at Mercado Isabel Díaz Castilla in Tenango de las Flores.
Try your luck with a fishing pole and your own patience at any of the reservoirs.
❖ Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
The huge, blue dome of this church really catches the eye. Then, as your eyes get used to the immensity, they come to rest on the central chandelier with silver-covered spheres like miniature planets.
Construction of the church began in the mid-20th century by the architect Carlos Lazo Barreiro. Inside, there’s a representation of the Virgin of the Assumption surrounded by a mural depicting regional flora and fauna.
❖ Santuario del Señor en su Santo Entierro
What was built in the 16th century as an Augustinian monastery is now the Santuario del Señor en su Santo Entierro, the church devoted to the town’s patron saint.
With its exposed stone walls and simple, peaceful atmosphere, the church has little in the way of adornment apart from the central cross and the image of the Christ in his burial. To the right, a mural by Raúl Domínguez relates the misfortunes the church has suffered. Next door is the Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe.
❖ Panteón Municipal y Mausoleo de Rafael Cravioto
The municipal cemetery is the final resting place of Huauchinango’s esteemed Rafael Cravioto—a decorated liberal military officer born in this town and who is recognized for his participation during the U.S. invasion, the Reform War, and the Second French Intervention.
The mausoleum is the work of Italian sculptor Adolfo Ponzanelli, disciple of none other than Auguste Rodin, known also for having a role to play in the construction of Mexico City’s Palacio de Bellas Artes.
❖ Swim Below the Totolapa and Salto Chico Waterfalls
With the Consejo Municipal de Turismo, you can arrange to explore the areas surrounding Huauchinango (with packages that include meals and lodging).
You’ll have the chance to see the reservoirs (by boat or on horseback) and the many waterfalls in the municipality, like Cascada Xopanapa, where you can do rappel, Cascadas de Totolapa, and Cascada de Tío Checo where you can swim in the natural pools.
❖ Go for a Boat Ride on Presa Tenango
A boat ride will put you in touch with the quiet surroundings and fill you with peace.
A few miles beyond Presa Necaxa, there’s Presa Tenango. The movie Tizoc, starring Mexican movie greats María Felix and Pedro Infante, was shot here in the 1950s. The tiny stone house that was the setting for their (fictional) romance can still be found facing the water.
There are boat and horseback rides, as well as a zipline. Check out the seafood restaurant found on the shore. You’ll undoubtedly find something you like.
❖ Go for a Bike Ride Around the Banks of Presa Nexapa
It’s perhaps the most mesmerizing of all the reservoirs. The nurseries next to the dam require people to transport their plants by boats in order to take them to the market in Tenango.
If you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of the beautiful, unhurried aquatic ceremony in progress. Framed by the surrounding mist and green, a lone castle on the horizon conjures up a sense of fantasy the scene already inspires.
❖ Huauchinango Carnival
Dance and party to the rhythm and joy of the huehues.
Lent kicks off with the Carnaval de Huauchinango (in February). It’s a time when the traditional huehues take to the streets.
Each neighborhood selects a group of people (“huehues”) to don masks and dance to the non-stop music and fun. There’s a contest for best outfit, best dancer, and best whip.
